In Mexico, about 90% of coffee is produced using the washed method, with the remaining 10% split between natural and honey processes. Some coffee-growing communities are now experimenting with these two methods, driven by climate change and the potential economic benefits.
A notable example is the Sierra de Flores Magón region in northern Oaxaca, where producers are challenging traditions and trying natural coffee, despite the adverse climatic conditions.
Producers Maricela Esperón and Rubén Cervantes share their experiences, challenges, and benefits of growing natural coffee in the Sierra Mazateca.
Rubén Cervantes: Pioneer of Natural Coffee in Loma Alta
Loma Alta is a small village located an hour from Huautla de Jiménez, the main town in the Sierra de Flores Magón, Oaxaca. This community is surrounded by mountains, valleys, watersheds, native forests, and crops, making it an agricultural paradise.
In the midst of this natural beauty lives Mazatec producer Rubén Cervantes with his wife Rosa Rubio and their children, Cristián and Citlali. For over 23 years, Rubén has been dedicated to coffee growing, processing his coffee using the washed method. However, during the 2023 harvest and with the support of Ensambles´ Field Coordinator Osiris, he decided to experiment with the natural process on a small batch.
To his surprise, the coffee scored better, so he decided to use more than half of this year's harvest for natural processing.
The changes have been challenging, but Rubén believes they are worthwhile. His coffee's score improved significantly, leading to a 20% increase in prices.
Most notably, his water usage has dropped significantly. Water is especially valuable this year because of a drought affecting Loma Alta. Rubén provides an example: processing two quintales (200 kilograms) of washed coffee requires 200 litres of water, while the same amount using the natural method requires only about 10 litres—a 95% reduction.
Challenges
But it's not all perfect. The natural method requires more time and care. Rubén explains that one reason many coffee growers are discouraged is the drying time. While washed coffee can dry in 8 to 10 days depending on the weather, natural coffee can take up to 45 days to dry completely.
Although this marks the beginning of a new era for Cervantes, he is eager to continue experimenting with the natural method to improve his future harvests and advance in the specialty coffee world.
"Natural Coffee is a Motivation to Move Forward" – Maricela Esperón
Maricela Esperón Dorantes stands out as one of the pioneers of natural coffee in Huautla de Jiménez, Oaxaca. It all began with an accident in 2017 when a half-bag of cherries was left forgotten for three days without being pulped. Instead of discarding them, Maricela decided to dry the cherries on raised beds and then sent a sample, which scored 87 points.
Maricela loves the harvest season because her home fills with the sweet scent of tamarind, which comes from the natural coffee drying on her patio. She says this aroma inspires her family each year, as it signals the great potential of their coffee.
Esperón highlights that natural coffee production has brought many benefits, such as higher raw material value and more efficient water use, since this method requires less water than the washed process. However, it is a risky method, as the peak harvest season in Huautla (from mid-January to March) coincides with heavy rains that can hinder the drying of the cherries.
"Sometimes the weather is very unpredictable. There are seasons when it rains for up to 15 days straight, and the product can spoil. Occasionally, we spread the coffee inside the house, but when the rains last longer, it becomes challenging," Maricela explains.
Despite the benefits, Esperón has tried to encourage other producers in the area to experiment with the natural process, but the response has been negative. Farmers believe this method demands too much time, additional care, and a higher investment.
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