Limonada is a coffee that thrives in two neighbouring and border-sharing municipalities: Cosautlán, in Veracruz, and Quimixtlán, in Puebla. Both are shaped by the stunning Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range and are home to predominantly Náhuatl indigenous communities.
Cosautlán, with its deep-rooted coffee tradition, stands out on the coffee map due to its proximity to Coatepec, Xico, and Teocelo—key regions in Veracruz’s historic coffee-growing basin. In contrast, Quimixtlán remains a less-explored origin, yet holds immense potential.
Productive Landscapes
The coffee landscape is unique and diverse: coffee plants grow under shade, spreading across peaks, slopes, and the foothills of the pine and oak forests that define the Sierra Madre Oriental, a region rich in biodiversity.
In Quimixtlán, a deep respect for the land is evident in the protection of native forests and wildlife, to the extent that coffee plants blend seamlessly into the dense vegetation. Farmers also diversify their production by growing other crops like papaya, pepper, macadamia, pineapple, and lemon—both for sale and personal consumption—fostering food sovereignty within their communities.
What Challenges Are They Facing
Cosautlán and Quimixtlán are known for offering coffee in whole cherry form rather than parchment. This is due to a combination of historical factors—during colonization and beyond, five wealthy families controlled all processing and exports—along with limited access to machinery, droughts, and water supply issues that restrict post-harvest processes.
In Quimixtlán, farmers carry their coffee to collection centers on foot or with pack animals, tackling unpaved roads and security risks such as theft and kidnappings, which discourage buyers.
Some farmers avoid fertilizing their soil, believing that intervening in virgin land may make it increasingly dependent on fertilizers over time.
Ensambles Connects with Quimixtlán and Cosautlán
We chose to establish a connection with Quimixtlán for two main reasons: its environment is perfect for growing high-quality coffee (thanks to its altitude, cool climates, and traditional varieties), and it is a remote area where producers rarely have access to the specialty market.
In 2023, we tested coffee from Quimixtlán, and it met our expectations. We purchased cherries, which were then processed in our wet mill at El Equimite farm in Coatepec (three hours by car).
Last year, we purchased parchment coffee from both Quimixtlán and Cosautlán, achieving good results. Our goal is to continue exploring these origins and expand our presence and impact in these lesser-known regions.
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